Percale vs Sateen: Weave, Thread Count and Cover Factor
Percale and sateen are the two weaves almost every cotton sheet is made in, and they are often sold side by side at the same thread count. They feel different because they are built differently: percale is a plain weave, sateen a satin-type weave. This guide explains the two structures, why sateen is usually woven with far more warp threads than weft, what the site's Thread Count & Cover Factor Calculator shows about typical constructions, where its cover factor formula stops being a fair comparison, and how to choose between them.
Percale: one over, one under
Percale is a plain weave. Each weft thread passes over one warp thread and under the next, all the way across, and the next weft does the opposite. Every thread is held down at every crossing. That gives percale its familiar character:
- a matte surface with a crisp, cool hand that softens with washing;
- good stability: the threads are locked in place, so the fabric resists snagging and pilling;
- a balanced construction, often with similar numbers of ends and picks per inch.
In some markets "percale" is used only for plain-weave sheeting above a minimum thread count, commonly quoted at around 180 to 200. Elsewhere the word is used more loosely for any plain-weave sheet.
Sateen: long floats on the face
Sateen is a variation of satin weave. Instead of crossing at every thread, the yarns on the face float over several threads before tucking under one. In a typical cotton sateen, the warp floats over four weft threads and under one. Because the surface is mostly long, parallel warp floats, sateen:
- has a smooth, lustrous face and a duller back;
- drapes more fluidly and feels warmer and heavier against the skin;
- is more prone to snagging and pilling, because the floats are less tightly held;
- is usually warp-faced, with many more ends than picks per inch.
Satin proper is the same structure in filament yarns such as silk or polyester; "sateen" usually means the cotton or spun-yarn version.
Typical constructions in the calculator
Here are three constructions, typical in shape rather than taken from any particular product:
| Construction | Thread count | Balance | Warp cover K1 | Weft cover K2 | Cloth cover |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Percale, 100 x 100, Ne 30 | 200 | 1:1 | 18.26 | 18.26 | 24.61 |
| Percale, 150 x 150, Ne 40 | 300 | 1:1 | 23.72 | 23.72 | 27.34 |
| Sateen, 200 x 100, Ne 60 | 300 | 2:1 | 25.82 | 12.91 | 26.83 |
The percales are balanced, with warp and weft covering equally. The sateen puts most of its threads, and most of its cover, in the warp: K1 is twice K2. That is what you would expect from a fabric whose face is made of warp floats.
Where the cover factor stops being a fair comparison
The calculator uses Peirce's cover factor formula, which treats yarns as round threads lying next to each other. It describes how much of the area the yarns would cover, and it compares plain weaves well. It does not know about the weave structure, and that matters for sateen.
In a plain weave, every thread bends over and under its neighbours at every crossing, and those crossings take up space. In a sateen, there are far fewer crossings, so the threads can pack more closely together before the weave jams. That is why sateens can be woven at warp densities that would be impossible in a plain weave with the same yarn. A sateen with a cover factor near or even a little above the plain-weave full-cover value is not necessarily misdescribed; a plain-weave percale with the same figures would be.
So use the cover factor to compare percale with percale and sateen with sateen. Across weaves, it is a rough guide only.
How they feel and wear
Temperature
Percale tends to feel cooler and more breathable, which is why it is often recommended for warm sleepers and hot climates. Sateen feels warmer and smoother. These are general tendencies; fibre, yarn and finish all change the result.
Wrinkling
Percale wrinkles more readily and shows it; some people like the crumpled look, others iron. Sateen's floats hide wrinkles better and drape more smoothly.
Durability
Percale's locked structure generally wears well and resists pilling. Sateen's floats can snag on rough skin, jewellery or pets' claws, and can pill sooner. A well-made sateen from long-staple combed yarn will still last for years with sensible care.
Appearance
Sateen's lustre gives a richer look, and prints and colours appear deeper. Percale has a crisp, matte, classic appearance.
Thread count in each weave
Because sateen can pack more threads, sateens are often sold at higher thread counts than percales. A 300 thread count sateen and a 300 thread count percale are not equivalent cloths: they have different balances, yarns and structures. Compare thread counts within a weave, not across weaves.
Very high thread counts in either weave deserve a second look. If a sheet claims a count in the high hundreds or more, check whether plies have been counted as separate threads. The guide to thread count in bed sheets shows how to test that with the calculator.
Yarn counts for each
Percale sheets are commonly woven from mid-range cotton counts, often in the 30s and 40s Ne, sometimes finer. Sateens are often woven from finer yarns, frequently two-ply, to give the smooth face. The yarn count converter translates a tex or denier figure into Ne if a supplier quotes a different system. If you enter a two-ply yarn into the thread count calculator, use the resultant count: two Ne 80 singles twisted together act like a single yarn of about Ne 40.
Sewing with percale and sateen
- Grain. Sateen's warp-faced surface makes the grain direction obvious; cut all pieces with the warp running the same way, or the lustre will differ between panels.
- Needles and pins. Use a fine, sharp needle. Sateen can show pin marks and pulled floats; pin in the seam allowance.
- Pressing. Press sateen on the reverse or with a cloth to avoid shine marks.
- Shrinkage. Pre-wash both if the finished item must fit, such as a fitted sheet or a duvet cover. Measure a washed sample with the Fabric Shrinkage Calculator and cut accordingly.
Caring for each weave
Both weaves are usually cotton and can generally be washed warm, but they reward slightly different care. Percale tolerates more abrasion in the wash and comes out crisp; line drying keeps it crisper, tumble drying makes it softer. Sateen's floats are more easily roughed up, so washing on a gentler cycle, not overloading the machine, and keeping it away from items with zips and hooks all help it keep its sheen. Sateen benefits from being taken out of the dryer promptly, because its smooth face shows creases set in by a hot drum. Neither weave needs fabric softener, which can leave residues that reduce absorbency. If you are making bedding from yardage, wash a sample of each and compare how it looks and how much it shrinks: weaves made from the same yarn can still settle by different amounts because of their different structures.
Choosing
Choose percale if you want a cool, crisp, matte sheet that wears hard and does not mind wrinkles. Choose sateen if you want a smooth, warm, lustrous sheet that drapes and you are happy to treat it a little more gently. Either way, the fibre and yarn quality matter more than a large thread count, and a sensible construction in good cotton will outlast an inflated count in poor cotton.
What the calculator covers
The calculator gives the thread count, the warp-to-weft balance and Peirce's cover factors for the ends, picks and yarn counts you enter. It flags a direction that exceeds full cover. It does not model weave floats, yarn flattening, twist or finishing, and it cannot judge how a sheet feels. Use it to compare constructions within a weave and to spot numbers that do not add up.